Incubating Chicken Eggs Part 3- Lockdown & Hatching
by Alexa Lehr | The Pioneer Chicks | April 25, 2023
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For those of you following along in our homestead Incubating series, part three covers the last two big parts of incubating chicken eggs: lockdown and hatching! If you have just joined us, you may want to check out the previous two parts of the series. In Incubating Chicken Eggs Part 1 we covered how to store fertile eggs and how to prepare your incubator. In Incubating Chicken Eggs Part 2 we covered setting the eggs and candling them. Now it is time to prepare the incubator for lockdown and hatching! Finally, the three week wait is over and we get to watch the eggs hatch!

What is Lockdown?

So, what is lockdown?

Lockdown is the term that we use to refer to the last operations done before incubated eggs are due to hatch. Lockdown operations are done three days before the eggs are scheduled to hatch, which is determined by each poultry species’ incubation cycle.

Chickens have an incubation cycle of 3 weeks, or 21 days. For incubated chicken eggs, lockdown occurs on the 18th day, which is three days before the estimated hatch day.

In nature, a broody hen doesn’t necessarily do a lockdown, however, she is a lot more in tune with her developing eggs than we can ever be. She knows when they no longer need to be turned, when the embryo starts to internally pip or move into hatching position and when more humidity is needed. Since we can’t know exactly what is going on inside the egg, we have to generalize. Experience has shown that there are some steps we can take before the eggs are scheduled to hatch that will mimic what a mother hen does for her incubating eggs.

To simplify things, I have narrowed it down to about five key operations to do during lockdown. You can perform these tasks any time on day 18.

1. Candle the eggs
2. Stop turning the eggs
3. Increase the humidity
4. Chick-proof any water sources (used for controlling humidity)
5. Close the lid!

Lockdown Notes:

For bantam chicken eggs, lockdown will occur 1-2 days sooner since the smaller eggs have a shorter incubation cycle. Bantams usually have an incubation cycle of 19-20 days.

If you are hatching multiple batches of eggs in the same incubator but they were set at different times or are different sizes, it may be a good idea to move the eggs that are ready to hatch to a ‘hatcher’ at lockdown. A hatcher is basically another incubator that is set to the proper temperature and humidity for hatching. Whether you use same incubator the eggs are incubated in or are using a hatcher, the steps for lockdown are the same!

Day 18 Candling (Lockdown)

Lockdown Step #1. Candling

The first thing I like to do during lockdown is candle the eggs.

This is the last time you will candle the eggs before they hatch. Just like previous times when you candled the eggs, prepare a secure place to set the eggs and get your bright flashlight ready. Don’t forget to wash your hands!

Begin by quickly and carefully removing all the eggs from the incubator and place them in a clean egg carton or on a secure, soft cushion. Candle each egg in a dark location and make a note of these things:

• development– by now the chick will fill most of the egg, except for the air cell, and the egg’s interior should look dark
• air cell– notice where the air cell is placed (it should be centered at the blunt end of the egg) and if it is the proper size (determined by egg size and humidity)
• dead embryo– a dead embryo will more than likely not fill the entire egg, it will be loosely floating and murky looking
• smell– if the egg smells rotten, then the embryo is dead

In the above photo, the first image is of one of a Svart Hona egg that did not finish developing, the embryo died mid-term. You can see a dark form, which is the embryo, but it is cloudy and only fills half of the egg. In the second photo, that Svart Hona egg contains a developing embryo! The embryo fills most of the egg and appears dark. Sometimes you can see the embryo moving in the egg when you candle at this stage!

You can also look for internal pips during this last candling. Internal pips are when the embryo has pierced the inner shell membranes to access the air cell. The embryo will use the air in the air cell to breath before it makes the pip through the shell to start hatching.

To look for internal pips, see if you can spot a small, dark triangle in the clear air cell. That pointy triangle would be a portion of the embryo’s beak.

Lockdown Step #2. Stop Turning

After you have finished candling the eggs, work quickly and efficiently to remove the turning mechanisms of your incubator. If you manually turned your eggs while they were incubating, you can skip this step and just stop turning them from here on out.

For incubators that have a turning plate, turning tray, or other turning mechanism, it’s time to remove those and stop the turning cycle.

A mother hen would stop turning her eggs at this stage in incubation. We will do the same thing with our incubator. This will allow the chick to be able to move into proper hatching position, with its head near the air cell. For incubators that automatically turn the eggs, do the following tasks:

• Turn OFF the turning mechanism. You will have to go into the program settings and select ‘off’ for turning.
• Remove the turning plate/tray/dividers if necessary. Basically, you want to be able to place the eggs anywhere in the incubator and allow as much space as possible for when the hatchlings are moving around and fluffing out after they hatch.
• Lay down some shelf liner to give the newly hatched chicks a stable surface to stand on. Incubators often have slippery, plastic floors that make cleaning easy but are hard for newly hatched chicks to stand on. When chicks can’t get stable footing after they hatch, it can lead to the condition of splayed leg and other leg deformities.

Once the turning has been stopped and any turning mechanisms removed, gently place each egg in random spots on the shelf liner.

Incubator Specific Tasks

Brinsea Mini: In my Brinsea Mini Advance incubator I program it so that it will automatically stop turning on day three of the countdown. I replace the yellow turning disk with a circle of shelf liner that will provide a stable surface for the chicks to stand on when they hatch. I then place each egg on the shelf liner with their pointy ends facing towards the center. The blunt end of the egg should always be above the pointy end of the egg.

Rcom: In my Rcom incubator, I program the turning to ‘OFF’ and remove the dividers that separated the eggs. I also lay down some shelf liner on the floor of the incubator.

Lockdown Step #3. Water Pot Guard (optional)

Before placing the lid back on the incubator, consider if any open water sources need to be covered. Water pots and reservoirs are used throughout incubation to help maintain the proper humidity levels in the incubator. When it gets close to hatch time, you will want to make sure that there is no open water that newly hatched chicks could accidentally stumble into.

Depending on the brand and model of incubator you use, you may need to place a guard over any open water sources. You still want the water to be open to the air because humidity is still important during hatching, but you should also make sure that no chicks can accidentally get into the water.

If your incubator doesn’t have any open water sources, then you can skip this step! You still may want to evaluate the interior of your incubator just to make sure there is nothing else that could cause harm to young hatchlings (e.g. sharp edges, tight corners where chicks could get stuck, etc…).

In the Brinsea Mini Advance incubator, the water pot is left open for most of the incubation process. At lockdown though, you should place the water pot guard over it to keep newly hatched chicks from accidentally falling into the water.

Make sure your incubator is hatchling proof and chick safe!

Lockdown Step #4. Increase the Humidity

If you can adjust the humidity levels within your incubator externally, then place the lid on your incubator and get those eggs incubating again! If you have to leave the lid off to adjust humidity levels, then do this next step quickly and efficiently so that you can get those eggs back to incubating as soon as possible.

The humidity must be brought up during the last few days of incubation. This will help keep the membranes of the egg from drying out. Dried out membranes will shrink wrap a chick and not allow it to hatch. Throughout the incubation process, a humidity level should be maintained that allows for proper moisture evaporation based on the size of the egg. At lockdown, that humidity level should be increased by 5-10%.

For most eggs, a hatching humidity around 65-70% is recommended. However, ideal humidity levels do vary depending on breed, egg size, and environmental conditions. The more you incubate and hatch eggs, the better you will get at knowing what the ideal hatching humidity levels are for your incubating situation.

If you are ever in doubt about the humidity levels, just watch for the first pip and look for the shell membrane. If it appears translucent and floppy, then the humidity levels are good. When the membrane appears white and stiff, then the humidity levels are not high enough to keep the membrane moist.

Tips for Raising Humidity:

• To up the humidity in the Mini Advance, I just fill both halves of the water pot.
• Clean sponges or damp clothes also help raise the humidity.
• Use warm water to fill water pots/reservoirs or to dampen sponges with.
• For fully automatic incubators, like the Rcom Max 20, you just have to program the humidity setting to 65-70%.
• Keep a small hydrometer in the incubator so that you can always tell what the humidity levels are.

These higher humidity levels should be maintained throughout the last 3 days of incubation and into the hatch. However, don’t let the humidity levels get higher than 80% for prolonged periods of time since the newly hatched won’t be able to ‘fluff out’ fast enough and may get chilled, which could lead to death.

Lockdown Step #5. Close the Lid!

If you haven’t done so already, put the lid on your incubator! Make sure it returns to a stable temperature and that the humidity increases to the proper levels.

This last step of lockdown is the easiest and the hardest step at the same time! You must keep that lid closed! No matter how much you want to check on those hatching chicks, don’t open the incubator. The incubator must maintain a stable humidity and temperature during these last few days before and during the hatch. Opening and closing the incubator lid will let in cool air and let out humidity.

The only time you would ever want to open the incubator from here on out is to add more warm water or wet sponges for keeping the humidity at the right levels. If you do have to open the lid, do so minimally, quickly, and efficiently. Ideally, never open the incubator if any of the eggs have been pipped.

How do Chicks Hatch?

Finally! We have reached the point in incubation for which we have been waiting! Those little chicks will now make their first appearance into the world! Exactly when your chicks will hatch depends on a few things:

• breed– smaller eggs tend to hatch sooner than larger eggs
• strain– hatching time sometimes depends on the strain within a breed of chicken that you get your eggs from
• storage length– eggs that were stored for long periods will take longer to fully develop and hatch
• incubation conditions– variables in the temperature or humidity can affect when your eggs hatch

When watching to see if the eggs are hatching or not, you want to look for pips and signs of unzipping. For average size chicken eggs, day 21 (or day 0 of an incubating countdown) is when you can expect to see your first pips!

Keep an eye on your incubator settings throughout the hatching process. To start with, make sure the humidity levels stay around 65%. When the first pip appears, the humidity will spike. Humidity spikes will occur from here on out whenever an egg pips or hatches. This is normal and okay as long as the humidity levels stabilize after some time.

Watch for these steps in the hatching process!

Step 1. Pipping! (photo #1)

• The first sign of hatching is a ‘pip’ in the egg.
• The ‘pip’ is the first small hole that a chick breaks in the shell when it runs out of air in the air cell. This enables the chick to breath fresh air for the first time!
• A chick uses its egg tooth, a small cap at the end of its beak to break through the shell. The egg tooth usually falls off a few days after the chick hatches.
• There is also a tiny muscle in the back of a baby chick’s neck that begins to spasm to give it enough energy to break through the shell.
• To top things off, the shell is usually brittle (from the chick drawing calcium from it during development) which makes it easier to break through.

When you see the first pip, it may be a good idea to decrease the incubator temperature by .5-1°F. This will help the chicks not overheat while they are working hard to break through the eggshell.

Step 2. Unzipping! (photo #2 & #3)

• The next stage of hatching is called ‘unzipping’.
• Unzipping is when the chick turns in the egg and begins to break around the blunt end of the egg.
• It is not unusual for a chick to take a long break from the first ‘pip’ before starting to unzip, so be patient! My chicks have taken over 12 hour breaks before actually hatching!
• Whatever you do, don’t open the incubator! The chicks needs the high humidity to be able to hatch successfully!

Chicks do not need help unzipping! The struggle helps them build muscles they need for standing up and walking after they hatch. Chicks will take long breaks both after they pip and while they unzip. Signs that the chick is still healthy and is just taking a breather include movement and cheeping. Also keep an eye on the shell membrane to ensure that it doesn’t dry out.

Step 3. Hatched! (photo #4)

• One last push and the chick should free itself from the eggshell and start stumbling around, working on gaining stability and balance after being curled up in an eggshell for 3 weeks!
• Don’t remove newly hatched chicks from the incubator right away! They need time to fluff out in the warm environment, plus their activity encourages other chicks to hatch.
• In an average hatch, all of the eggs should hatch with in 24-48 hours.
• ‘Fluffed out’ means that the chick’s down has dried and that it is no longer damp.
• If a chick is not completely fluffed out when you remove it, then it could get chilled and die.
• Chicks that don’t fluff out within an hour or two of hatching could get chilled and die. Chicks won’t fluff out properly if the humidity levels in the incubator are too high. Again, you are aiming for humidity around 65-70% throughout the hatch.
• If you are experiencing a draggy hatch (one that takes longer then 24 hours), remove the hatched chicks once they have completely fluffed out.
• To keep the humidity up even when you open the incubator to remove fluffed out chicks, you can place a warm, damp sponge inside the incubator.

Once a chick hatches, you may be able to see waste left behind in the egg shell. This is from when the chick was developing and the kidneys had already started producing waste. Sometimes that waste may stick to the chick as it hatches, don’t worry, it will dry and fall off.

After most of the eggs have hatched and all the chicks are sufficiently fluffed out, you can move them from the incubator to the brooder! Make sure there are no more pips in any eggs before opening the incubator to remove fluffed out chicks.

Introduce the newly hatched chicks to their brooder environment, show them where to get food and water, and where to find the heat source.

Should I Help a Chick Hatch?

Chicks rarely, if ever, need help hatching, so resist the urge to help! Be very patient. Helping a chick hatch before it is ready could cause it to die if the abdomen has not fully closed.

I had a chick that took 21 hours from pip to hatch. If you have one that is taking quite a few hours, just keep watching for movement and listening for noises. Sometimes if you peep to a chick that is still in its egg, it will peep back. Peeping to your hatching chicks often helps encourage them since that is what a mother hen would do when her clutch is hatching. Also make sure the shell membrane doesn’t dry out.

If a chick hasn’t shown any progress or activity after quite a few hours since initially pipping, you may consider gently assisting the chick by breaking away small sections of the eggshell around the pip. Assisting a chick with hatching is a very delicate process that I won’t discuss just now. In general, if you see blood, STOP! If nothing else, dampen the shell membrane around the pip which might at least bring some cheeps or movement from the chick, showing that it is still alive and well. It just needs more time before hatching!

For more tips on if you should help a chick hatch, check out this Pioneer Printable Hatching Guide! And make sure you read How to Tell if a Chick Needs Help Hatching.

Now What?

The incubator is empty and the brooder is full! What’s next? Now you need to care for your newly hatched chicks, making sure they get food, water, and enough heat to stay warm. Having baby chicks on the homestead is always a fun experience, but it does require some time commitment! If you’re like me, you will find it hard to get any other work done around the homestead when you have chicks in the brooder. How can you ignore those cute, cheeping, balls of fluff!?

Here’s some further information for caring for your new brood:

• Brooder Set-Up Essentials
• 10 Helpful Facts for Raising Chicks
• How to Tell if a Chick is Healthy
• 8 Ways to Keep Your Chicks Healthy
• What NOT to Include in the Brooder

If you have any questions about your incubation process, feel free to ask them in the comment section below! Also, you won’t want to miss any other information in raising a homestead flock, so make sure you sign up for our modern pioneer newsletter so you can get our weekly tips on raising a natural and sustainable homestead flock!