How to Choose the Right Chicken Coop Litter
by Alexa Lehr | The Pioneer Chicks | Sept. 17, 2024
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One of the most important decisions you will make when building your homestead chicken coop is deciding what coop litter to use. Choosing the right coop litter can make all the difference for the health and well-being of your flock as well as make cleaning and maintaining the coop easier. There are several things to consider when picking out a chicken coop litter. Absorbency, ease of cleaning, maintenance, economic factor, litter dangers, and regional considerations are all factors to be considered when choosing a litter. I have used various types of litters over the years and have found that certain litters work better under certain circumstances. Let’s take a brief look at the most common chicken coop litter choices you have to choose from.
Wood shavings are a very popular chicken coop litter choice, however, there are some factors to consider when choosing wood shavings.
The absorbency factor of wood shavings is excellent. They can absorb moisture from droppings very well. As with any litter though, too many droppings will cause the wood shavings to reach their absorbency maximum, which can lead to moist litter mats and ammonia fumes in the coop. That is where cleaning and maintenance of wood shavings come in.
As far as daily maintenance of wood shavings is concerned, they are very low maintenance! If you don’t use a droppings board in your coop, you will want to remove any large clumps of droppings from the wood shavings every day to expand the wood shavings’ usable life. However, if you do have a method to contain the nightly droppings, wood shavings only need to be tended once a week! Just stir the wood shavings up at least once a week to keep them from getting matted and encourage the breaking down of any droppings.
For coop cleaning, wood shavings will need to be completely replaced every 3-4 months, depending on how many chickens live in the coop and how regular you are with litter maintenance. You will want the wood shaving litter to be fairly thick (5-6 inches) to make maintaining them easier and to prolong how often you have to replace them. Wood shavings break down fast and despite their high absorbency rate, they can still get dirty and matted without proper care.
This brings us to discussing the economical factor of wood shavings. Depending on how expensive wood shavings are in your region may determine if they are a good litter choice for you. In my area, they run about $5 a bag and I need 2 bags to do a complete cleaning of my coop every 4 months. That averages to about $40 a year for my coop litter. I find that wood shavings are a fairly economical litter choice for at least one of my chicken coops.
Do wood shavings present any dangers? Yes. Any litter can be dangerous if not maintained properly and if your chickens are not managed correctly. While it’s generally not a problem, do keep an eye out for chickens who eat the wood shavings. This can be more common with younger birds than older birds and can cause problems like impacted crop. Choosing large flake wood shavings is a good way to prevent this issue from being a problem. Don’t use fine flake wood shavings since they can be dusty and easily consumed accidentally.
Also, make sure the wood shavings don’t get too wet and become moldy, musty, or smelly. Another potential hazard is buying a certain kind of wood shaving. It is recommended that you avoid using cedar wood shavings with chickens. Large flake pine shavings are the ideal and safest wood shaving choice.
One concern a lot of people have about using wood shavings is that they are too dusty. If you choose large flake wood shavings, dust should not be a problem. Chickens naturally produce dust, so, over time, any litter you use will become dusty. That is one reason for regular coop cleaning and litter maintenance.
Due to their high absorbency rate and low maintenance, wood shavings are a great litter for beginner homesteaders. They also make a nice summer or warm-weather litter. Wood shavings are not ideal during the winter since they do not trap heat or promote stable temperatures within the coop.
Another popular chicken coop litter is sand. Construction grade sand is the only sand that should be used for chicken coop litter. Play sand is too fine and can contain chemicals. Construction grade sand is course and consists of various particle sizes. This makes it safer for the chickens and enhances its ability to be a good coop litter. Construction grade sand can also provide a way for your chickens to dust bath while they are confined in their coop or enclosure.
Construction grade sand has a fairly decent absorbency factor. It will absorb and drain moisture nicely. However, too much moisture will cause it to clump and harden. That’s why cleaning the construction grade sand is a must on a daily basis.
Cleaning construction grade sand is fairly simple though. Any large sifter or even a small kitty litter scoop can be used to sift debris from the sand. Since sand does not compost, droppings must be removed from the sand on a daily basis to prevent ammonia fumes from forming and to extend the life of the sand.
Maintaining sand is a little more time consuming, but complete litter change outs don’t have to be done as often when you use sand. If you clean up the sand on a daily basis, you should be able to go 1-2 years between complete litter change-outs. The sand doesn’t have to be very thick (about 4-5 inches) since it doesn’t break down or compost.
Sand is a fairly economical litter choice and be extremely economical if it is maintained regularly. In my area, 1 load of sand costs around $50 and provides enough to use in the chicken coop and provides extra to put in my chicken coop enclosure. I only have to buy a load every 2 years, so that averages to about $25 a year. Plus I have extra litter for sprucing up the enclosure.
Like with any litter, there is always the danger of chickens eating too much of the litter. Most of the time chickens will not bother with their litter. So crop impaction shouldn’t be too big of a concern when choosing a litter. Construction grade sand actually provides a source of grit for your chickens to ingest to help with digestion.
A few problems that sand can have is becoming wet and moldy or becoming too dusty. Clumps of wet sand should be removed immediately to prevent them from becoming moldy and building up bacteria. Since chickens naturally produce dust, sand will become dusty the longer it is used as litter. When you are cleaning the sand on a daily basis, this dust can be a hazard if it is riled up regularly. I often encourage my chickens to be outside in their enclosure while I am cleaning the sand in the morning. If the sand becomes too dusty, it will be time for a complete change-out.
Due to its heavy mass, sand works as an insulator and temperature regulator within the coop. During the summer, it helps the coop stay cooler and during the winter, it helps the coop maintain a steadier, warmer temperature. Sand is a great moderate-weather and temperate-weather coop litter. Since it does require a bit of daily maintenance, you will want to make sure you have time every day to give it a brief cleaning.
For regions that experience harsh winters or extremely cold temperatures, sand may not be the best choice since it doesn’t trap or create heat.
Straw is a very popular winter chicken keeping litter, and for a good reason. Its absorbency factor is good, it makes a great insulating litter, and chickens LOVE it! However, there are some situations in which straw would not be a good choice for the homestead coop.
Straw is fairly good at absorbing moisture, however, it is best noted for its ability to compost with droppings. The composting process creates some heat, thus making straw an excellent choice for cold weather climates. Straw requires very low daily maintenance. Again, using a droppings board will extend the life of the straw and make cleaning less of a hassle. As long as nightly droppings are removed everyday, straw only needs to be maintained once a week, much like wood shavings. Just give it a turn and stir to promote the composting process and keep the straw from becoming matted.
As with wood shavings, straw will break down and reach its absorbency capacity and need to be replaced. You should completely replace straw litter every 3-4 months. Straw litter should be fairly thick (5-6 inches) to promote good composting. During the summer, the straw litter can be thinner, but it will need to be replaced more often.
In some areas, quality straw can be hard to locate. However, if you are able to find a quality source at a reasonable price, straw can be just as economical, if not more economical, than wood shavings. In my area, 1 bale of straw costs about $5 and I only need 1 bale to create a nice, thick winter litter in my chicken coop. If I replace that straw every 4 months, then that only adds up to about $20 per year.
Straw can present a crop impaction problem if the chickens get too excited with sorting through the straw and consume too much of it. Giving your flock access to grit and monitoring them for the first few times you give them straw should prevent any issues.
Also, you will want to ensure you are using straw, not hay. Hay is for feeding to animals, not for use as a litter. Straw has hollow shafts that enhances its ability to serve as a good litter. Hay would just become matted, messy, and smelly. You should also get quality straw from a good source. Quality straw should be a golden yellow, not wet, and not dusty. Good sources of straw will also be free from bugs and chemicals.
As with any litter, make sure you remove any large clumps of wet or matted straw to prevent mold or bacteria from forming in the coop.
Straw is a great cold-weather coop litter. Due to its insulating capabilities, straw makes a great litter during the winter. Straw naturally composts to create heat and is naturally insulating. It can also be used as a litter during the summer in regions that have moderate temperatures. If used during the summer, the straw doesn’t have to be very thick and should be replaced regularly.
Straw makes great winter enclosure litter as well. It provides entertainment for the chickens and naturally composts with droppings which creates some heat. Climates with extremely warm temperatures are not suitable for straw litter. The straw will not promote a cool environment within the coop.
Deep litter is a variation of using straw litter. It is a very popular method to use during the winter because it actually generates heat and is very easy to maintain.
The deep litter method works by promoting the decomposition of droppings within the litter. This composting process breaks down the components of the droppings so that they don’t harbor bad bacteria or build up ammonia. To start the deep litter process, you will need a base litter and some straw. The base litter should be compostable since that is the primary purpose of the deep litter.
The deep litter method eliminates the need for daily cleaning, however, it does need to be maintained on a regular basis. I still recommend having a way to manage the large quantities of night-time droppings, but some droppings are needed to allow for the deep litter method to work. To maintain a deep litter, it just needs to be turned and stirred on a weekly basis. This accelerates the composting process and allows the droppings that gather on top of the litter to be stirred in so they can be broken down by the organisms causing decomposition on the floor of the coop.
You will also need to regularly add fresh straw to the deep litter. As the composting process breaks down the droppings, it will also break down the litter. Continually adding fresh straw will ensure the composting process proceeds correctly and doesn’t have the opposite effect of building up bad bacteria and ammonia fumes.
As for cleaning deep litter, deep litter should not be completely replaced until you are done using it for the year. You should also completely replace deep litter if something goes wrong and your coop starts to get smelly. Generally, deep litter is used during the winter months, so it should not be replaced until spring. Deep litter can be used for 4-6 months depending on where you live.
The economical factor of deep litter is fairly decent. You basically need to buy a base litter (or you can use a natural litter base) and some straw. A common base litter is wood shavings, but natural litter like dried leaves or pine needles can also be used (we talk more about those later). In my area, a wood shaving bag costs $5 and a straw bale costs $5, so my start-up cost is $10. That initial bag and bale will get me started on deep litter in one of my coops. To maintain deep litter throughout Michigan’s 5-6 month winter season, I need an additional 3-4 bales. That would add up to $15-$20 additional cost to my start-up cost. Some winters I can get away with less straw if they are mild.
The most common danger that the deep litter method presents is the problem of it being done incorrectly. If the correct composting process does not start, then harmful bacteria can start to grow and ammonia fumes could over-power the coop. Correct starting materials and proper maintenance can help keep the deep litter method from becoming a failure.
Any wet or matted clumps of deep litter should be removed immediately. Also, the deep litter can get dusty, just like any other litter, so be cautious when you turn it and ensure there is plenty of air flow to clear the dust as soon as possible. If it gets too dusty, you may need to replace the litter and start the deep litter method over again.
The deep litter method should only be used during seasonal cold months. If you live in a region that is cold all the time (like below 40°F), then you may consider doing the deep litter method on a regular basis.
For homesteaders who only experience seasonally cold weather for part of the year, the deep litter method can be used to help your flock deal with the cold. However, once the weather starts to warm up, you will want to switch to a lighter litter that won’t heat up the coop.
For more information about using the Deep Litter Method as well as tips for maintaining coop litter during the winter, make sure you get The Ultimate Guide to Winter Chicken Keeping!
A less commonly used chicken coop litter is natural litter substrates. Natural litters can be just about anything you find in the surrounding environment that you can use as a litter. The two most common natural litters are dried leaves and dried pine needles.
With natural litters I want to start right off with the dangers they present. Any natural litters MUST be completely dry. This can be a challenge depending on where you live. To ensure that a natural litter is dry, I recommend letting it dry in the sun and turning it occasionally to make sure it is dried all the way, much like farmers dry hay. Just like with other litters, watch out for matting and over saturating natural litters.
Also, be aware of what sources you acquire your natural litter from. Not only should it be free from chemicals and pesticides, but certain species of plants provide better natural litters. When collecting dry leaves, try to avoid including too many oak leaves. Oak leaves are higher in tannins than other leaves which can cause health problems if consumed or if the tannins get into your flock’s water source. Natural litters can also have higher concentrations of mold spores and bacteria that may proliferate in the right environment.
As for absorbency, natural litters do not absorb much moisture. They mostly function as a litter by decomposing with the droppings. Natural litters have slightly higher cleaning and maintenance needs than other litters. Dropping boards are essential with natural litter to keep from overusing the litter too soon. For daily maintenance, remove any large clumps of droppings on a daily basis. Once a week you should stir and turn the litter to encourage the composting process. As for cleaning, natural litters may not last as long as straw or wood shavings. Having a thick layer (6-10 inches) to start with and maintaining the litter on a daily basis can help extend the usable life of the litter. Still, you will probably have to replace natural litter as frequently as every 2-3 months.
One big benefit of natural litters is that they are usually a free litter choice. Whether you gather them from around your own property or help a friend out by taking care of their dried leaves or pine needles, you can often find natural litters for free. You will want a layer of natural litter at least 6 inches thick each time you put new litter in the coop. However, natural litters are usually seasonal. That means you will have to gather and dry enough of the natural litter to store for future needs. Alternatively, you can use a natural litter for as long as you can, then switch to a different litter like wood shavings or straw.
Natural litters can be used whenever you have access to them. Just make sure they are dry and as clean as possible. Natural litters are best alternated with wood shavings or straw. Dry natural litters also make a good base litter for the deep litter method since they stimulate the composting process. Natural litters are typically used during the fall. I recommend switching to a the deep litter method for colder, winter months though.
Natural litters aren’t good insulators, however, their composting process does generate some heat which pairs nicely with the deep litter method. If you do manage to dry and store enough natural litter for later use, you can use it during the spring or summer months.
Shredded paper is one litter that I do not recommend. However, I have decided to discuss it so that I can outline why I don’t recommend you use it in your coop.
Depending on the kind of shredded paper you use may affect how absorbent it is. Papers that are highly inked will not be as absorbent and may even shed water. That moisture is then allowed to set and become a harbor for bacteria. On the other hand, lightly inked papers will absorb tons of moisture and become soggy. Soggy papers mat up easily and create disgusting litter clumps. Highly inked papers can also be slippery, which would be a hazard for the chickens.
Chickens should not consume paper, so using it as a litter would be a potential hazard if they consumed any while scratching or foraging around. Shredded paper also does not compost easily. Since shredded paper either shreds too much moisture or absorbs too much moisture and it doesn’t compost very quickly, it does not make for a very good litter.
One reason why homesteaders may choose shredded paper is because of its economic factor. If you have access to shredded paper, it is often cheap or free. However, you would need a lot to create a thick litter layer and replace it very frequently. Often times, the risks involved are not worth the economic gain.
With all that being said, I would like to say that shredded paper can be used as an emergency litter. If you have no other options it can be used for a short period of time. Make sure the shredded paper litter is at least 6 inches deep. Droppings should be cleaned out of the shredded paper on a daily basis and any wet or matted clumps should be replaced immediately. Shredded paper can be used as the litter for a little while if it is maintained properly, but you should still have a replacement litter available as soon as possible.
Choosing the right coop litter is essential for both you and your chickens! I know from experience that certain litters make maintaining your chicken coop and caring for your homestead flock so much easier! Low maintenance litters are nice for busy homesteaders and economic litters are great for penny pinchers. However, when choosing a homestead coop litter, also make sure you consider your regional weather, environment, and resources. The right coop litter will help you raise a happy, healthy flock!
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