Let’s face it, chicken is on the menu for a lot of animals! Chicken is a favorite meal option for just about every predator out there, big or small. It may seem discouraging to raise a homestead animal that so many predators have on their meal list, but with some basic safety precautions, you should be able to keep your homestead flock safe! Knowing some tips and tricks for how to predator proof the chicken coop, including the enclosure and yard, is essential to keeping your homestead flock off the dinner menu!

Know your Predators

All that being said, you will not be able to completely ensure that you will not lose a chicken to a predator. Predators are deceptive, cunning, and smart, and when driven by hunger, they will do just about anything for a drumstick!

Different predators use different tactics to gain their dinner. There are ones who climb, some who fly, others dig, and still others who prefer ambush. Be aware of what predators live in your area so that you can know how to best predator proof your flock’s coop, enclosure, and yard.

Predator Types:

• Reptiles (snakes)- climb, sneak through holes, grab through wire
• Rodents (rats)- climb or jump, dig, sneak through holes
• Varmints (raccoons, skunks, opossums, weasels)- climb or jump, dig, sneak through holes, push and pull on structures, grab through wire
• Canines (coyotes, foxes, dogs)- jump, dig, grab through wire, ambush
• Felines (bobcats, domestic cats)- ambush, jump
• Bears- push and pull on structures
• Birds (hawks, eagles, owls)- swoop down from above, ambush

Make sure you know how the signs and characteristics of the creatures who might make your flock their snack!

Now let’s take a look at what methods you can put into practice to make sure your homestead flock is safe and secure from all predators!

Predator Proofing: the Coop

The coop should be a place of safety for your flock, so you should make sure that it is adequately predator proofed. Predator proofing the chicken coop can take place while you are building it or, if you bought a pre-built coop, you may need to add some additional protection to ensure it is completely predator proof. There are different things you can do to make sure your entire coop is predator proof.

Windows:

Windows are often an easy place for predators to break in, so you will want to make sure the windows on your coop are sufficiently barred, latched, or blocked. Just because a window is high up on a wall doesn’t mean a predator can’t access it.

• For any window, it is a good idea to cover it with hardware cloth. You should use 1/4″ or smaller hardware cloth.
• Fasten the hardware cloth on the inside of the window using screws, not staples. Make sure the screws securely fasten the wire and that the wire will not slip or break away.
• Using screws and washers is very effective at securing hardware cloth and prevents it from being torn off.
• You can also secure screening up with the hardware cloth to prevent any varmints or rodents from sneaking in or reaching through the hardware cloth.

For windows that have latches or can be opened and closed, you will still want to cover them with hardware cloth. You will also want to make sure the latches are secure and predator proof. Raccoons are especially capable of unlatching latches. Latches that require multiple steps to unlatch are best for fooling raccoons.

Doors:

Any doors on your chicken coop should be predator proof as well. Cunning predators, like raccoons, have the ability to figure out simple door latches. On doors that have windows, the windows should either be glass or securely covered with hardware (see Windows section above).

Having double doors can also make it trickier for predators to get into your coop as well. Installing a screen door and a storm door would be an example of having double doors. Do not have just a screen door because that would be too easy for a predator to break through.

Make sure all the doors securely latch when closed and that there are no cracks or holes around the door frame.

Chicken Door:

The chicken door (where the chickens enter and exit the coop) is definitely an access area that must be considered. Obviously it cannot be blocked off because the chickens need to use it regularly, but that also allows easy access for predators if it is not managed carefully.  

During the daytime, if you have a secure, predator proofed enclosure you should not need to worry too much. Keep an eye out for rodents and snakes who may take advantage of the opened chicken door during the daytime though.

The most important thing you can do to keep predators from entering via the chicken door is close it up tight at dusk! Once the chickens have gone in to roost for the night, close the chicken door. A lot of predators are most active at dusk, so being extra cautious at this time of the day is important.

Make sure the latch on the chicken door is complicated enough that raccoons can’t figure out how to open it. A securely latched door goes a long way to protecting your flock at night.

You may consider investing in an automatic chicken door. An automatic chicken door will open and close at specific times that you program in the morning and at dusk. Automatic chicken doors bought from reliable companies are predator proof and make a great investment! Battery powered or solar powered automatic chicken doors are available too!

Walls:

The walls of your chicken coop should also be considered when predator proofing your coop.

• They should be made out of material that predators cannot bury into and will have an extremely tough time chewing through.
• Any holes or cracks, no matter how small, should be plugged or blocked off. This includes ventilation holes, which should be blocked off similar to windows.
• Weasels are especially capable of squeezing through small holes, as are snacks and rats.

Roof:

The roof of your coop should not only provide shelter from the weather, it should also be predator proof. It should be made of a material that cannot be buried or chewed through and won’t rot or decay. Make sure there are no cracks between the roof and the walls of the coop. The roof of your coop should protect your flock from aerial and climbing predators.

Flooring:

Predators will also look for a way to sneak in under the coop. The chicken coop should have a solid, predator-proof flooring. Solid flooring is better than wire flooring for both the health of your chickens and for keeping them safe from predators.

The flooring should not be prone to rotting or decaying. Make sure there are no cracks or holes in the flooring or where the floor meets the walls of the coop. Consider if the litter you use in your coop will in any way effect how predator proof your flooring is. Canines like to dig under structures. Rodents, snakes, and weasels will try to sneak through any holes or cracks.

You may even consider putting a hardware apron around the base of your coop. A hardware apron is basically hardware that is attached to the base of your coop, then bends down, out, and away from the coop. You can bury the apron or place landscaping material (like stones) over the apron. An apron prevents predators from getting close enough to your coop to be able to dig or sneak into the coop.

Outside Nesting Boxes:

If your coop has nesting boxes that extend outside of your coop, you will need to consider predator proofing them as well. The nesting boxes should be safe and secure. There should be no cracks or holes that allow access to inside the nesting boxes.

The lid for the nesting boxes should have a secure latch. Raccoons, opossums, rodents, and snakes have a particular liking for chicken eggs. Make sure your hens, and their eggs, are safe from predators!

Predator Proofing: the Enclosure

The enclosure is where your chickens may spend a majority of their waking hours. It is also the primary target for predators. Enclosures are sometimes the weakest line of defense for your flock if they are not predator-proofed properly. Predators are often more motivated to get their dinner when they can actually see it and the chickens will be more than likely to freak-out at the sight of a predator. All this causes stress, chaos, and potentially tragedy! Examine these parts of your enclosure to ensure it is predator proof.

Fencing:

Fencing is the most important part of your flock’s enclosure. It needs to be able to keep the chickens in and predators out. Chicken wire was once thought of as a sufficient fencing option for chickens. However, chicken wire can easily be bent, ripped, broken, or rusted, allowing a predator easy access with minimal work.

Hardware cloth is a much better, sturdier option. It is heavier fencing material that cannot be bent or broken as easily, and it resists rusting. Quarter inch hardware cloth is ideal for poultry as it is effective at keeping even small predators out, like weasels. Hardware cloth is generally more expensive than chicken wire, but it is worth the additional safety.

Other sturdy fencing options to look into include metal dog kennels or welded wire fencing. The gaps in these fencing options are often larger than hardware cloth, so they may not be as effective in keeping out smaller predators.  You can use a combination of these fencing options and hardware cloth to provide a safely enclosed enclosure.

When fastening your fencing to the structure of the enclosure, use heavy duty screws and washers to secure the fencing. Don’t fasten the fencing with something that could easily be pulled out or popped out. Zip ties, short staples, and small headed nails or screws won’t suffice.  Once secured, the fencing should be able to stand up to a good deal of pushing and pulling.

Structure:

• The main structure of the enclosure should be solid. Supporting posts and base boards should be firmly and deeply set in the ground.
• The structure should be able to withstand a good amount of pushing and pulling.
• Any doors that allow access to the enclosure should be installed properly and and have no cracks or openings around the frame. The door(s) should latch securely.
• Make sure the joints where the enclosure joins the coop are securely fastened and have no cracks or spaces where predators can slip in.

Around the base of your enclosure you may consider putting a hardware apron to deter diggers. A hardware cloth apron extends from the base of the enclosure, down into a trench (6-12 inches deep) and out (about 12-14 inches). The apron helps prevent any predators from digging under the enclosure.

Roof/Covering:

The roof of your enclosure should provide protection from the weather and protection from predators. Some people use netting as a covering over their flock’s enclosure. Not only does this leave the chickens stuck inside on inclement weather days, but it also does not provide adequate protection from predators.

An actual, solid roof will protect your flock from both the weather and from predators. The roof should be made out of materials that won’t rot and can’t be chewed through easily. Tin or rubber roofing materials work nicely for covering the enclosure. Make sure where the roofing joins the coop is securely covered and fastened so no predators can slip underneath.

Check around and under the enclosure’s roof to make sure there are no small cracks or spaces where predators can slip through. No matter how high up or how small, a predator may still try to get through a crack, crevice, or hole.

Predator Proofing: the Yard

If you free-range your chickens, you will also want to consider how predator friendly the homestead yard is. However, you should realize that when you free-range your chickens there is ALWAYS a risk of a predator attack. There is no way you can completely predator proof your homestead without turning it into a giant enclosure. Here are some tips to help your flock stay safer while free-ranging.

Cover:

Make sure there is plenty of cover, like trees, shrubs, weeds, and tall grasses. These will give your chickens a place to run to and hide. However, the idea of providing cover works both ways. It allows the chickens to hide, but it also allows predators to sneak up and ambush. Select the cover areas carefully.

Small clumps of cover area may be more attractive to your chickens and a predator may not find the clump big enough to provide ample ambush. Place the cover areas close to your house, near the chicken coop, or in close proximity to a place that you work in a lot. If a predator smells the presence of humans or knows that a particular area is highly trafficked, it may not be as inclined to hang out there for an ambush.

There are many items that you can make cover out of for your free-ranging flock.

• Natural clumps of shrubs, grasses, and small trees can create nice cover.
• Intentionally planting bushes and shrubs in certain areas around the yard will give your chickens a nice place to hide or hang out under.
• Taller trees can provide a cover or canopy for your chickens to retreat under in the case of an attack from above.
• You can also build DIY projects for your flock! Something made out of pallets, old wood, or tree branches can provide some unique and decorative cover options!

Shelter:

Not only should the homestead yard provide cover, but it should also provide shelter for your free-ranging flock. A shelter is a safe, predator-proof place of retreat for your flock. The obvious choice for shelter would be the chicken coop. A lot of time free-ranging flocks will stick fairly near to their coop.

A shelter is basically a more secure form of cover. It should have a roof, 4 walls, and a door for the chickens to enter and exit through. The chicken coop doesn’t have to be the only form of shelter. Barns, sheds, and chicken tractors can also make good shelters!

Fencing:

Fencing is optional for the yard. Even a fenced in yard will not ensure complete safety for your free-range flock (it is also debatable about whether a fenced-in yard still allows your flock to ‘free-range’). Predators will still try to dig, climb, or break through a fence and of course the fence can’t keep out flying predators. However, fences can create another barrier for predators who can’t fly to try and get through.

If you do choose to fence in your yard for your chickens, make sure the fencing has an apron around it to deter diggers and that it is tall enough to discourage most predators from jumping over. The material you use for fencing may depend on how sturdy you want it to be and how much your budget can afford, as fencing can be expensive.

You may even consider lacing the fencing with electrical wire for added protection or investing in electrical fencing.

Objects:

Putting certain objects around the yard may help to deter predators as well.

• Shiny Objects– Hang CD’s or other shiny, dangling items around the yard to deter flying predators.
• Fake Predators– Having a fake owl or hawk statue may also help to frighten away other birds of prey if they think that the area is already being patrolled by another bird.
• Noise- Some people suggest playing a radio in the yard to mimic the presence of humans.
• Scarecrow– Crows are smart, but a scarecrow may be effective against other ‘less bright’ predators.

Predator Prevention on the Homestead

Predator proofing the chicken coop, enclosure, and yard is good, but preventing predators goes a long way too! When you predator-proof the coop, you are making it as hard as possible for predators to access your chickens. When you prevent predators, you are making the coop, enclosure, and yard as un-inviting as possible for predators.

The main attraction of course is the chickens, but some predators may also be interested in chicken eggs or chicken feed. Collecting eggs regularly during the day and making sure no eggs get left out in the coop overnight will take away the egg attraction.

As far as chicken feed goes, here are a few tips:

• store feed bags in sealed galvanized tins (keep in mind that in very hot and humid climates the galvanized tins may sweat, so you may want to use plastic tubs instead)
• if you can, store feed away from the chicken coop
• clean up spilled feed right away
• hang up feeders outside during the day, then bring them in and put them in a sealed tub for the night (this eliminates feed spillage in the coop)
• clean up any snack scraps that didn’t get eaten by the chickens- e.g. pumpkin rinds, zucchini skins

NiteGuard:

Investing in devices that have been created for protecting your flock against predators is also a great option for preventing predators. One such predator prevention device is Nite Guard. Nite Guard is a solar powered predator repellent. It is a small box that emits a bright red light which blinks every few seconds throughout the night. The blinking light fools predators into thinking that they have been seen, which scares them away.

In her book Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens, Gail Damerow promotes Nite Guard by stating “One perfectly legal method that works on every predator prowling between dusk and full daylight is a solar-powered blinking red light called Nite Guard.”

I installed Nite Guard on my chicken coop one summer after a raccoon got in the enclosure during the night. I have had no ‘after dark’ issues since installing two Nite Guards on each of my coops.

Guardian Animals:

Guardian animals come in all shapes and sizes. They include dogs, geese, guinea fowl, llamas, and donkeys to name a few. A guardian animal can be a great way to protect your flock, but there are some responsibilities that come with having a guardian animal.

Consider these factors before you decide to get a guardian animal:

• Do you have a suitable place to house the guardian animal? Not all guardian animals can live with the chickens in their coop.
• What are you going to feed the guardian animal? What are its food and water needs?
• Do you have time for the daily care of a guardian animal? What other maintenance will the guardian animal need? (grooming, a companion, health checks, etc..)

A lot more goes into choosing a guardian animal too. Do your research so that you know what breeds make the best guard animals. You will also need to know which animals can co-exist together.

Other animals can provide protection for your flock too even if they aren’t a guard animal. If you have a dog, take the dog for walks around the yard, allowing him to mark and leave his scent. This lets other animals, and predators, know that this is his area.

Roosters will provide some degree of protection. Protective roosters will let their flock know when danger is near and may even attack predators. Horses, cows, pigs, and even cats can help ward off predators too.

Coop Training:

If you free-range your flock, you will definitely want to invest some time into coop training your chickens. Coop training is when you train all your chickens that the coop is the safest place for them, and it is where they can find food, water, and a good place to roost. You can train your chickens to come in at dusk and/or to come when called.

It’s easiest to coop train your chickens when they are young, but even older chickens can be taught new tricks! You can teach your flock to come running to the coop when you shake a treat bag or clap your hands or call for them! Getting your chickens to come when called is very helpful for putting them in quickly!

Predator proofing the chicken coop and yard will help keep your homestead flock off the dinner menu! Knowing that your flock is safe and protected is a huge relief for any homesteader. The chicken coop, enclosure, and yard should be a place of security for your flock. By implementing these predator proofing and predator preventing tips, you should be able to keep your flock happy and safe!

For tips on how to build a predator proof, safe, and secure chicken coop check out my post on Chicken Coop Building Essentials!

Also, don’t miss any other tips for raising a homestead flock! Join our modern pioneer newsletter community!

by Alexa